目录01课Cotton Growing棉花种植102课Cotton Properties and Uses棉纤维的特性和用途204课Wool羊毛505课 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纤维的结构和性能706课 Silk丝绸1007课 Flax亚麻1309课 Rayon人造丝1612课YARNS1913课 纱线结构和织物外观的关系2021课 精纺和粗纺2225课 络纱2327课 整经2633 课 织机3440课 蓬勃发展的非织造布4349课 染色48第一课Cotton Growing棉花种植 Cotton is the worlds most widely used fiber. Its popularity stems from both its relative ease of production and its applicability to a wide variety of textile products. The price of cotton yarn, however, is strongly dependent upon the cost of labor, so that in the industrialized nations, where labor is expensive, cotton yarns may be relatively high priced.棉花是世界上使用最广泛的纤维。它的流行源于它的生产及其在纺织产品广泛适用性相对容易。棉纱价格，然而，强烈地依赖于劳动力成本，因此，在工业化的国家，那里的劳动力昂贵，棉纱可能相对较高的价格。Until relatively recent times, however, cotton was not as widely used as wool and linen. This was because it was easier to spin wool or flax into yam because of their greater length. In addition, cotton fibers have to be separated from the seeds to which they cling. This procedure was very tedious and time-consuming when done by hand. Early machinery could be used on only the longest staple cotton. So labor costs tended to be very high.直到最近，然而，棉花是没有广泛用作羊毛和亚麻布。这是因为它容易被毛或亚麻纺成纱由于其更大的长度。此外，棉纤维要从种子中分离出来的，他们依靠。这个过程是非常繁琐和费时的，手工做的。早期的机器可以用在只有长纤维棉花。所以劳动力成本会很高。 The invention of the saw-type cotton gin made possible the exploitation of the short staple fiber, which thrived in the Carolinas and Virginia of the United States. The dramatic increase in productivity, coupled with the low cost of labor in the southern United States, gave cotton a continually expanding portion of the world textile market. Increasing mechanization of fiber and yarn production helped keep the cost of cotton goods low. The, development of the textile machinery enlarged the production base.的锯片式轧棉机的发明使可能的短纤维的开发，兴盛于美国北卡罗莱纳州和弗吉尼亚州。生产率的急剧增加，加上在美国南部的人工成本低，给棉不断扩大在全球纺织市场部。机械化程度提高，纤维和纱线的生产使棉花的成本低的商品。纺织机械的发展，扩大了生产基地。 Cotton cultivation requires warm climates with a high level of moisture or irrigation. The growing season is from six to seven months long. During this period the seeds sprout and grow, producing a white blossom in about 100 days. The blossom produces a seed pod, which matures during the next two months. When the pod bursts, the cotton fibers are ready for picking.棉花种植需要温暖的气候和水分或灌溉高水平。生长季节是从六到七个月。这一时期的种子发芽生长，在大约100天，产生白色花。当荚破裂，棉纤维是采摘。 Before yam manufacture, cotton is graded, sorted, and blended to insure uniform yam quality. Cotton is graded on the basis of color, staple length, fineness, and freedom from foreign matter. In the United States, cottons are divided into grades according to length of staple, uniformity, strength, color, cleanness and flexibility. These are compared with a standard supplied by the United States Department of Agriculture. The standard provides 6 grades above and 6 grades below the Middling grade. The most common grades are:山药生产之前，棉花分级，分类，和混合均匀的纱线质量的保证。棉花是彩色的，依据梯度纤维长度，细度，和外来物质的自由。在美国，棉花分根据纤维的均匀性，强度，颜色，长度为等级，清洁和灵活性。这些都是由美国农业部提供一个标准的比较。本标准规定了6级以上，6级以下的中等。最常见的等级：(1) Strict good middling.（1）严格的上级。(2) Good middling. （2）上级。(3) Strict middling. （3）严格的中等。(4) Middling. （4）中。(5) Strict low middling （5）严格的低中等(6) Low middling. （6）低中等。 (7) Strict good ordinary. （7）严格好普通。 The cotton fiber may be from 0.3 to 5.5 cm long. Under the microscope it appears as a ribbon like structure that is twisted at irregular intervals along its length. The twists, called convolutions, increase the fiber-to-fiber friction necessary to secure a strong spun yarn. The fiber ranges in color from a yellowish to pure white, and may be very lustrous. However, most cotton dull.棉纤维可从0.3到5.5厘米长。在显微镜下看起来是一个带状结构，沿其长度不规则的时间间隔扭曲。曲曲折折的，称为卷积，增加纤维间的摩擦力要获得一个强有力的纱。从浅黄色到纯白色的纤维的范围，并可以很有光泽。然而，大多数棉花迟钝。 A cross-sectional view reveals that the fiber is kidney-shaped with central hollow core known as the lumen. The lumen provides a channel for nutrients while the plant is growing. The fiber consists of an outer shell, or cuticle, which surrounds the primary wall. The primary wall, in turn, covers the secondary wall surrounding the lumen. The cuticle is a thin, hard shell which protects the fiber from bruising and damage during growth. In use as a textile fiber, the cuticle provides abrasion resistance to cotton.管腔提供养分的通道而植物的生长。纤维由外壳，或角质层，围绕初生壁。反过来，包括初生壁，管腔周围次生壁。角质层是薄的，坚硬的外壳保护纤维生长过程中的破碎和损伤。在用作纺织纤维，角质层提供了耐磨抗棉。第二课Cotton Properties and Uses棉纤维的特性和用途 A relatively high level of moisture absorption and good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more comfortable fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about one-fourth of its weight in water. This means that in