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攀岩技巧之保护篇攀岩技巧之保护篇 先锋保护需要注意的几个环节先锋保护需要注意的几个环节先锋保护和其他的保护要注意基本点是相通的,但先锋保护因为方式不同,更有几个环节 要特别注意:1.检查攀爬者的绳结(一定要有收尾防脱结)和确认保护器安装正确2.一定要理顺绳子,并在绳尾打结3.保护和攀爬者头盔一定要正确的配戴好4.在起步至第一把快挂前,保护者应在攀爬者的后下方采用抱石的保护法,主要给于 有效的缓冲5.绳索受力的保护开始时,保护者不要站在攀爬者的下方6.保护者应站立在攀爬者移动的反方向,这样可以减少绳子穿过快挂的摩擦力,不至 于对攀爬者造成不必要的阻碍7.站立的位置要和第一把快挂成一定的角度,不要正对岩壁站立(防止拉力冲向岩壁),可 以在岩壁的侧面(但也不要贴着岩壁)8.在对攀岩者安全的状态下,尽量保持绳子略微放松弯曲,冲坠时可以给于一定的冲 坠长度9.攀爬者挂绳的时侯,保护者送绳,并要快速积极的前后移动,来调整给绳的长度10.时刻注意攀爬者的动作,对于其冲坠和其他危险情况(如落石等)积极进行判断, 并做好冲坠保护准备11.大声提醒攀爬者,如快挂挂反了, (手臂,脚腿,脖子等在绳子里面会产生绳子缠 绕的危险的) ,绳子钩住等12.冲坠时给绳是持续给出,并慢慢收紧到停止,这样可以给攀爬者较舒适的缓冲,也 可以减少攀爬者在空中的摇摆13.攀爬者要留意挂片的安全性,是否有明显的松动情况并采取有效方式解决14.做顶的方式和技术要熟练,不要贪图方便把绳子直接结下来穿顶链(绳子的重量会 导致工作困难并有失落绳子的危险)15.顶链的环只能作为下降使用,如果要做顶绳攀爬准备,请务必带装备另作系统,如 果是用快挂和 O 型锁做系统(挂绳一端,锁具开口方向一定要一正一反)16.在线路中途一定不能用挂片直接下降(可以带把电工锁或梅隆锁用以下降)17.先锋保护建议不要使用 GUIGUI(能很好控制 GUIGUI 的除外)Beating the Fear of Falling-战胜冲坠的恐惧战胜冲坠的恐惧组图组图在先锋攀岩的初期,很有可能使你在一个难点处犹豫,是放弃还是继续向上,在冲向最难点而坠落(也有可能突破难点而成功) 。毫无疑问,期望完攀线路而避免冲坠的本能反应对你来说是精神上的巨大挑战,这种高度焦虑不安的心情将阻止或破坏你平稳而自信的攀爬。然而,这却是所有即将成为先锋攀岩者必须克服的问题。通过特定训练,你将克服冲坠的恐惧而使水平更上一层楼。事实上,自我克服冲坠恐惧的方法也有助于你在生活的其它挑战领域发挥作用。要习惯于冲坠,必须与真实的冲坠体验直接对话,在你的本能恐惧中必须强制自己冲坠(假设自己在安全的运动线路或者岩馆里) ,这种冲坠练习只要使你冲向先锋攀的困难极限即可。许多初学者认为这是难以忍受的,他们在困难的攀登面前太紧张,因为一直向上的艰难攀爬,不清楚要冲坠或冲坠后的情形是很可怕的事。有趣的是,一旦他们冲坠过,平安无事的先锋冲坠体验将消除其危险幻想,大多数的恐惧因此消失。如果你不能使自己试着冲坠,则需要进行有目的的脱落来战胜恐惧。通常可以选择室内攀岩馆或者有良好保护的野外垂直运动线路进行冲坠,悬岩的线路是理想的场所。攀爬三至四个膨胀螺钉高,确定你的保护系统没有问题,最后一个膨胀螺钉离你的安全带一至两英尺,然后开始你的第一次冲坠。当绳索制动以后,你向外翻出的身体仅冲坠了一小段距离,分析保护系统是如何工作的。然后,爬得比刚才更高些尝试另一次有目的的冲坠,重复这个过程多次,直至使最后一颗膨胀螺钉高出你的脚底。开始冲坠训练的时候感觉像是吃苦药,几星期之后,你将有意识或潜意识适应冲坠的感觉,此时便可以继续 On-sight 线路或红点攀爬了。你对冲坠的恐惧将减小,可以专注于尝试攀爬目标了。做到这点,将带给你全新的突破。(第一次翻译,谬误之处,敬请指正!谢谢!)Mike Free man and Russ Cluneon Love Life(12b)Liufeng51Liufeng51 关于先锋冲坠练习的一些经验补充关于先锋冲坠练习的一些经验补充1)找一个熟练的你信任的先锋保护者,可以缓解练习脱落时的恐惧;2)先锋之前要练习挂快挂的方法,不管哪种开口方向的快挂,左右手均需熟练,每个 动作至少练习 50 次,同时学习解快挂的方法(扣反了快挂要解开,初学者很容易将快挂扣 反);3)先锋冲坠最好先在人工岩壁上训练,超过 90 度的仰角或大小屋檐是最好的练习场 所,可以减少意外受伤的可能;4)冲坠训练时最好爬得高些,翻出仰角或屋檐是比较好的选择,一般下面至少五六把 快挂(十米以上),给绳子预留足够的缓冲长度,相对来说会更安全些,经过长距离的冲 坠后,应该换绳的另一头练习,并让绳子“休息”一段时间;5)冲坠练习时不要抓绳子,如果害怕,可以先从短距离开始练习,逐步加大冲坠距离, 至不感觉害怕为止;6)冲坠时要放松,双手自然伸展,也可以护在胸前,但不要用力推岩壁,以免脱离岩 壁过远,撞向岩壁受伤(可以用脚蹬岩壁);7)先锋攀爬时注意你的脚和绳子,不要让绳子缠绕住了你的脚后跟,以免发生倒挂冲 坠。附原文:BeatingBeating thethe FearFear ofof FallingFallingEarly ventures at lead climbing will likely have you in the midst of a crux pondering whether to retreat from the difficulties or push yourself to the point of falling (or possibly a success without falling!). No doubt, there will be many mental battles waged as your desire to do a route conflicts with a primal instinct to avoid falling. The result will be a high level of anxiety that feeds back and disrupts your ability to climb smoothly and confidently. Recognize, however, that this is a battle that all would-be lead climbers must persevere through. Given a committed, disciplined effort, you will eventually conquer the fear of falling and reveal a whole new level of ability. Whats more, winning over fear is a process of self-development that will enhance your capabilities in other challenging areas of your life.To become accustom to falling, however, is a state that only results from real-life experience at taking lead falls. Therefore, you must force yourself to fall (assuming its a safe sport route or gym climb) in spite of what your instincts dictate. Such “practice at falling“ is something that might occur simply by pushing yourself to the limit on a difficult lead climb. Many novice leaders find this to be an impossible task, because its just too scary to push upward on a hard climb not knowing if they will fall or what the fall will be like. Interestingly, most of the fear evaporates once they do fall- experiencing the uneventfulness of the average lead fall dispels the illusion of danger.If you cant bring yourself to fall trying, you will need to stage some intentional falls in order to beat the fear. An indoor climbing gym or a steep well-protected sport route provide the ideal platform for practice falls. Select a slightly overhanging route void of high-profile holds, and climb up to the third or fourth bolt. Confirm that your belayer is ready, and then take your first fall with the last bolt you clipped just a foot or two below your harness. In this case, letting go will turn out to be rather anticlimactic as you drop only a few feet before the rope arrests the fall. Upon taking the fall, analyze how well the belay system worked. (It is trustworthy after all!) Now, climb back up a foot or two higher than before and take another intentional fall. Repeat this process one or two more times, with the goal of taking your final practice fall with the bolt at or just below your feet.At first, performing this falling drill will feel much like taking bitter medicine. After a few weeks, however, your conscious and subconscious will acclimate to the feeling of falling. Then, as you begin to pursue on-sight and redpoint ascents, youll notice a decreasing fear of falling and a new instinctual desire to risk and embrace falling in the attemp
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