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Protection of Oxidative Hair Color Fading: Development and Evaluation Summary Hair coloring has become more and more popular in past decades, as people use color to express themselves. However, no dyes are actually “permanent” dyes. Due to small size of dye molecules, they easily leach out of hair fibers, leading to color fading and change in tone upon exposure to physical and chemical treatments. A variety of strategies were employed to help minimize fading and improve color maintenance, including using color protection products. Hair care ingredients were explored to avoid hair color lose, and become an important part on a number of anti- fading regimens. In the paper, hair dying principle was briefly introduced and reasons for dye lost were discussed. The ingredients claimed for anti- fading as well as their mechanisms were classified and compared. The paper also reviews the methods designed for evaluation of color protection effect, including subjective evaluation, colorimeter and image analysis methods. Styleze W- 20 as a representative anti- fading ingredient was described and valuated. In summary, color fading and the loss of color vibrancy typically comes with everyday washing. The need of consumers who want to extend the duration of rich, brilliant hair color accelerated the development of anti- fading products. Most color protection formulations nowadays relied substantially on three kinds of ingredients: polyquaternium compound, silicone and plant abstraction. Polyquaternium basing on cation- stick and film- forming mechanism presented leading anti- fading effect in various products. Styleze W- 20, as polyquaternium, showed perceivable color lock effect, providing 34.82% improvement compared with blank group. Also the higher anti- fading efficacy of Styleze W- 20 system over commercial benchmarks is proven with five different types of dye colors as well. 发用护色原料的开发和评测发用护色原料的开发和评测 董思宇,孙汝溦,朱中卫,徐蕴,瞿欣 领先特品化学(上海)有限公司,上海技术中心,中国上海 Zhou, Yan* *ISP/Research Jachowicz. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 28(3):231- 232, June 2006. 3 Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation. Jeon SY, Pi LQ, Lee WS. Journal of Cosmetics Science. 59(2):151- 6, Mar- Apr2008. 4 GNPD database. 5 Method for improving the fade resistance of hair and related compositions. Malti Vishin Bhambhani, Alexander Chan, etc. US patent 6143286. 6 Protection of Oxidative Hair Colour Fading from Shampoo Stripping by Styleze W- 20. Yan Zhou, Linda C. Foltis,etc. www.ispcorp.com. 7 Image analysis of hair treated with styling products. McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 55(1):128- 9 Jan- Feb 2004.
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